Aplomado Falcon Near Cardel, Veracruz, Mexico in September 2004, by David MacKay.

Things stack up. The pressure just grows and grows until it becomes insupportable. It’s time to go on holiday!

Ostensibly, this was a scouting trip. We were checking hotels and restaurants in order to provide future groups with fine accommodation and both a tasty and timely cuisine. We were dry-running highways and by-ways to gather info on road conditions and driving times from site to site. Even the sunset, smooth-water boat cruises were merely to oil the machinery for 2005. Forget that Veracruz in general—and Xalapa in particular—is famous for its savory fare and fabulous fresh seafood dishes. We were streamlining logistics for a tour-aborning.

Of course, what we were really doing was ticking the birds. Over the course of our trip we recorded nearly 350 species, ranging from Long-tailed Sabrewing and Keel-billed Toucan in the rain forests to Pinnated Bittern and Double-striped Thick-knee in the the wet savannas to Amethyst-throated Hummingbird and Mountain Trogon in the highlands. But just like everyone else, we were especially interested in the six million raptors that pass through Veracruz every fall. 

One of our primary sites was the roof of the venerable five-story hotel in Veracruz that serves as the Pronatura Hawk-Watch platform. We arrived just before dusk. Almost immediately a Hook-billed Kite wafted by. The next morning an Aplomado Falcon launched from the same location. This was the downtown area of the bustling little city of Cardel. Incredible. In all my travels I had never before seen either species in the hub of a densely-populated urban setting. 

On that fine September day we were to see no less than one dozen Aplomado Falcons. The very next Aplomado aloofly allowed us to approach within 50 paces—and never did fly. As David digiscoped a full-frame portrait, I admired its horizontally pin-striped vest. Although clearly on the move, the Aplomados were not migrating, at least in the usual sense of the word. It’s just that central Veracruz hosts one of the highest population densities of this stunning bird of prey of any place in the Western Hemisphere. Meanwhile the skies overhead were filled with waves of Broad-winged Hawks moving south. The counters told us that several of the flights that week were estimated in excess of one-half million Broad-wings. Among them was a smorgasbord of other raptors. We saw 24 species and more were possible. Although controversial, several counters even felt that a wildly out-of-range Golden Eagle had been swept all the way to Veracruz on the favorable winds.

The reason we weren’t at the Cardel Hawk-Watch site to join the debate was because there were so many other great places to go and so many other wonderful birds to see. After all, we were vacationing! The morning of the would-be Golden Eagle we were visiting the colonial town of Amatlán. Almost in the shadow of 18,000-foot-high Pico Orizaba, Amatlán is the home of a reclusive Mexican endemic called Sumichrast’s Wren. David had his heart set on the Sumichrast’s, even though it really looks like nothing so much as an overgrown, overall brown-colored Canyon Wren. It’s cascading song is even reminiscent of a Canyon Wren. 

But unlike the latter species, Sumichrast’s Wren has one of the smallest ranges of any bird in Mexico. The world population is entirely restricted to a series of limestone escarpments that undulate like frozen ripples across the lowlands of central Veracruz and adjacent Oaxaca. The area is only about 75 miles long by 40 miles wide. Much of the terrain is now occupied by coffee fincas. But enough jagged ridges riddled with crevices, potholes, and little cliffs remain to gladden the heart of any habitat-conscious birder. Sumichrast’s Wren will probably continue to sing its spiraling carols until the last karst formations have been ground to talcum.

Our luck was running high on the day of our visit to Amatlán. Even as we walked towards the first ridge we detected its distinctive song. Within an hour we had seen Sumichrast’s Wren at less than minimum focus. 

Another of our targets was Red Warbler. This sprightly little guy, valentine red with a silver cheek patch, is a must for any trip that touches its highland range. Daybreak found us on the winding little track down to Las Minas. We never did make it to the town. En route the road contours at an elevation of about 8,000 feet across a hillside cloaked in a lush cloud forest. From deep in the barranca below strains of mariachi music provided a curiously appropriate background for the jumbled chorus of nearby birds. Among these were Gray-breasted Wood-Wren, Russet Nightingale-Thrush, Gray Silky-Flycatcher, Golden-browed Warbler, and Cinnamon-bellied Flowerpiercer. And there were also several Red Warblers. No matter how often I see it, this is one endemic species that always elicits a cardiac drumroll.

Afternoon found us high on the slopes of Cofre de Perote finessing a sacred fir forest in the vicinity of a little village called Conejo—or Rabbit. There were no rabbits, but we did encounter Elegant Euphonia, Striped Sparrow, and Black-headed Siskin. Feeling invincible, we decided to make one last stop back in Xalapa. Macquiltépetl, a city park that encompasses the old neck of an extinct volcano, is famous for White-naped Brush-Finch. The brush-finches were there, but something even better—a Mexican lifer—awaited both of us at the entrance. I could scarcely believe that here at the gate to a city park, after more than 30 years exploring the most remote corners of Mexico, I would find my first Canada Warbler. For me that one tiny little gray and yellow spark of life seemed to lift a great weight. I felt refreshed and vigorous. I was almost eager to attack the problems awaiting me back in Tucson. 

That night we toasted the birds of Veracruz. I think David would agree, the Mexican cerveza at dinner that evening was especially delicious! 

Eared Quetzal Barranca del Cobre in August 2004, by Dave MacKay.

	Boat-billed Heron San Blas, Mexico in January 2005, by Sam Palmer.

 

Tamaulipas Pygmy-owl
San Luis Potosi, Mexico in September 2004, by David MacKay.

With 88 species, Mexico has the eighth largest number of endemics of any nation in the world. In fact, in the Western Hemisphere only Brazil and Peru surpass Mexico in numbers of endemics. Mexico ranks tenth in the world in total number of birds. Boasting over 1050 species, no nation in North or Central America—including the U.S., some ten times larger than Mexico—comes close to matching Mexico’s bird diversity. Is it any wonder birders flock to Mexico?

Our 2005 program includes six tours to six very different areas south of the border: San Blas (in January for the past ten consecutive years), Oaxaca Valley (March), Grand Oaxaca (April), Barranca del Cobre (August), Veracruz (September), and the Yucatán (December). 

Owing to their easy proximity to a variety of habitats, both the San Blas and the Oaxaca Valley tours spend a full week in each of their respective areas without a single hotel change. The food on both of these tours is excellent. In San Blas our hotel features the best chef in Western Mexico. Betty Vazquez trained two years in France to produce her amazing culinary masterpieces. In Oaxaca, after full days visiting flower-strewn highlands and impressive archaeological sites (some of Mexico’s best-preserved habitat occurs in archaeological zones), we have the option of either American cooking or regional favorites at our “home” hotel restaurant—and at the fine restaurants overlooking the pulsating Oaxaca City plaza we visit on two evenings. One week is a long time to spend in one room if space is an issue. In both San Blas and Oaxaca all rooms are essentially “junior suites,” featuring sitting areas and generous sleeping quarters.

Of course, the food and accommodations are also good on our Grand Oaxaca tour, in Barranca del Cobre, in Veracruz, and in the Yucatán. These are more “traditional” trips, with travel days when the group transits from one hotel to the next, birding en route. On the Grand Oaxaca loop we’ll investigate cloud forests, rain forests, thorn forest, and coastal lagoons and estuaries. In Barranca del Cobre we take the famous first class train up from the coast to the crest of the Sierra Madre, to the very headwaters of Barranca Urique, Mexico’s famous “Grand Canyon.” Veracruz is wonderful for hawks, hummingbirds, and warblers. Our Yucatán trip starts on little Cozumel Island, home of three endemic species, and then crosses the northern Peninsula, stopping at the major archaeological sites of Coba (location of the tallest Maya pyramid in Mexico), Chichén Itzá, and Uxmal, as well as visiting Río Lagartos for thousands of Caribbean Flamingos.

Black-browed Barbet Malaysia & Borneo in March 2004, by Dave Semler & Marsha Steffen.

	Stork-billed Kingfisher Malaysia & Borneo in March 2004, by Adam Riley.

Black-and-yellow Broadbill
Photo taken in Malaysia & Borneo, March 2004, by Dave Semler & Marsha Steffen.

Streaked Spiderhunter Photo taken in Malaysia & Borneo, March 2004,
by Dave Semler & Marsha Steffen.

Alaska 2004

Northern Saw-whet Owl

Photo taken in Alaska, June 2004, by Joe Faulkner.

Denali & Rick’s Van from Chris’s Van

Photo taken in Alaska, June 2004, by Joe Faulkner.

Chiapas, Mexico 2004

Agua Azül

Photo taken in Chiapas, Mexico, December 2004, by Rick Taylor.

Palenque
Photo taken in Chiapas, Mexico, December 2004, by Rick Taylor.

Chile 2004

Participants in this group have been on an aggregate of 216 trips with Borderland Tours!

The group at Torres del Paine National Park, Chile, Nov. 7, 2004 (left to right): Enrique Couve (guide), Cynthia Pruett, Joyce Meyer, Barbara Bickel, Marsha Steffen, Paul Hannah, Sue Sandiforth, Dave Semler, Rick Taylor (guide), Steve Harmer, Karin Grillo, Doug Newton, Darlene Sison-Newton, Kathy Olmstead, Alan McCready, and Jim Holmes. Photo courtesy of Doug Newton.

 

Magellanic Woodpecker, female. At 17 inches, the largest woodpecker species in South America.

Photo taken in Chile, November 2004, by Dave Semler & Marsha Steffen.

 

Giant Hummingbird		Scarlet-headed Blackbird (vagrant!)
Photos above taken in Chile, November 2004, by Dave Semler & Marsha Steffen.

Diademed Sandpiper-plover

Photo taken in Chile, November 2004, by Dave Semler & Marsha Steffen.

 

Staff Notes 

Barbara Bickel once again represented Borderland Tours at the annual ABA Convention in McAllen, Texas. Other travels included three weeks in Chile on our maiden tour to that country. 

Clive Green and wife Mary Jean Hage visited Brazil in 2004, where they had wonderful views of a Harpy Eagle. With the addition of Dark-winged Trumpeter on the Río Cristalino, Clive only needs two more families to have seen all of the bird families of the world.

In 2004 Carlos “Charlie” Gómez built a new home for his 87-year-old mother next door to his and Vicki’s in San José, Costa Rica. Along with Vicki, all three of the the children, Laura (19 and at now the “U”), Sergio, (17), and Sylvia (15), can now visit Doña Gomez every day.

The Alamos, Sonora Christmas Bird Count, compiled by David MacKay was featured in the September issue of Audubon Magazine. Wife Jennifer has opened a new and very popular restaurant in town.

Chris Sharpe and wife Iokiñe Rodriquez are the proud new parents of twin sons Oliver and Dylan born Dec. 16, 2004. Elder brother Kamil, now two, is learning to imitate calls of some common birds near his parents’ home in Caracas, Venezuela.

In addition to her regular office work and her field work as our T & L (“bag lady”) staff in Texas and Arizona, Lynne Taylor joined Rick on one of our annual tours to San Blas, Mexico—for her third time! It’s hard not to fall in love with San Blas, not only the birds but the people—especially the Vazquez family who own and operate the Hotel Garza Canela.

Rick Taylor completed his revision of The Birder’s Guide to Southeastern Arizona, part of the ABA/Lane Bird Finding Guide series. He is scheduled to give the opening night presentation at the ABA convention in Tucson in July. If you attend, please say hello.

We Now Accept Visa and Mastercard!

2006 Preview
 

A sample of 36 different tours exploring 6 different continents:

• India—January 23–February 9
• Venezuela I: Andes & Llanos—March 14–24
• Venezuela II: Rancho Grande & Bolivar—March 23 – April 1
• Islands of the Sea of Cortez—April 9-16
• Spain—May 1–15
• Tropical Australia—July 2–23
• Ecuador—July 20 – Augst 4
  
• Galapagos—August 3–12
• Peru—October 7–20
• Uganda—November 3–20

Please watch for details this August in the Borderland Tours 2006 catalog.