Adventure-seekers have
long navigated the 30,000 miles from Alaska to Tierra del Fuego, following
the legendary Pan-American Highway. But the road abruptly stops in Eastern
Panama and the next 99 miles is an undulating green fabric where the earth
primeval has successfully withstood the onslaught of chainsaw and asphalt.
This region is known as “The Darién.” The same mountains, forests and wetl
ands that have foreclosed all road-construction between Panama and Colombia
have created a de facto wilderness. Here, among the largest primary forest
tracts in Panama, live avian treasures that have been eliminated everywher
e else in Central America, and throughout most of South America, too. White
-headed Wren, considered uncommon throughout much of its limited range, is
frequently seen on the grounds of the Canopy Camp. The towering forest of F
ilo del Tallo Hydrological Reserve envelops the Camp, offering such regiona
l specialties as Gray-cheeked Nunlet, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, and Pale-belli
ed Hermit. Stepping onto the trails here can yield such winged ornaments as
White-bellied Antbird, Golden-headed Manakin, and Royal Flycatcher, with r
eal chances for the elusive Tiny Hawk, an accipiter no larger than a robin.
Red-throated Caracara—here in its last stronghold—and King Vulture can oft
en be seen flying over the adjacent clearings. Other fabulous birding optio
ns exist within 30 to 60 minute drives from the Camp. At Yaviza, the easter
nmost terminus of the Pan-American Highway, possibilities include Jet Antbi
rd, Pied Water-Tyrant, the range-restricted Black Oropendola, Black-capped
Donacobius, Red-breasted Blackbird, and Pearl Kite—the smallest Neotropical
raptor. Full day outings in the environs of the Rio Tuquesa can yield such
tantalizing species as Spectacled Parrotlet, Bare-crowned and Chestnut-bac
ked Antbirds, Moustached Antwren, Black-bellied Wren, Orange-crowned Oriole
, and charismatic birds such as Black Hawk-Eagle, Chestnut-fronted Macaw, R
ed-billed Scythebill and the exquisite Blue Cotinga, attired in turquoise s
o rich it is simply hypnotic. A visit to the property of the Tierra Nueva F
oundation offers possible rewards like Slaty-backed Forest-Falcon, Red-rump
ed Woodpecker, Cinnamon Becard, Yellow-breasted and Black-billed flycatcher
s, White-eared Conebill, and even a chance for Great Currasow. Perhaps the
most impressive aspect of our visit to this remote region is the level of c
omfort provided at the Canopy Camp itself. Situated only 1.5 miles off the
Pan-American Highway, spacious, safari-style permanent tents are set atop r
aised platforms and furnished with locally harvested teak flooring in the b
edrooms and en suite bathrooms. Afternoon siestas can be spent reclining in
chairs on the private deck for each tent, or slung in a hammock under the
eaves of the open-air lounge area. Sequestered in spectacular lowland rainf
orest and providing creature comforts unmatched in the region, the Canopy C
amp offers a superb base for exploration of the wilderness land bridge whic
h unites the whole of the Western Hemisphere.
Leaders: Panamanian leader & Jo hn Yerger
Cost of Panama: Canopy Camp
